London Fictions |
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We protest against such moral ideas in town-planning, ideas which must obviously make England more boring that it has in recent years already become. … The disappearance of pretty girls, of good family especially, will become rarer and rarer after the razing of Limehouse. Do you honestly believe that a gentleman can amuse himself in Soho? ... Anyway, it is inconvenient that this Chinese quarter of London should be destroyed before we have the opportunity to visit and carry out certain psycho-geographical experiments we are at present undertaking. London’s Chinatown as we know it today began to take shape at this point. Encouraged by seedy Soho’s cheap rents and already established reputation for cosmopolitan dining, a few Chinese restaurants set up in the streets to the north of Leicester Square. Demand from West End theatre and clubbing crowds ensured their popularity, attracting more Chinese not just from the East End but from Hong Kong and the New Territories. Thanks to Docklands regeneration, London’s first Chinatown is now all but erased from the physical site of Limehouse Causeway and Pennyfields, The 'Old Friends' restaurant on Commercial Road offers a distant echo of the old Chinatown. It's one of the oldest Chinese restaurants in London, though dating back only to the 1950s, so well after the dissolution of Limehouse's Chinese community. Only the evocative street names – Canton, Pekin, Amoy, Ming, Mandarin, Nankin – and a metal dragon sculpture coiled above the Limehouse exit of the Docklands Light Railway, remind us that once this district vibrated to a distinctly Chinese rhythm. Anne Witchard, 2013 |